By jimninaMay 3, in Technical Tips and Tricks. So we started having a problem with our dometic fridge when we switch between LP, Shore, or Genny power. This started after we had a shorted out surge protector that pushed v through out the v circuits. The 5A fuse in the fridge did its job and popped. I found new 5A fuses and replaced the blown one on the circuit board.
Any help would be appreciated. I would go to Bryant RV website and download a copy of the appropriate Dometic service manual. In it, you should be able to find the appropriate fuse to use.
There exist a very wide range of fuses in terms of speed so it would be risky to use a slow blow fuse where it isn't required. It also sounds like your heater is drawing more than the normal current as it should not be that sensitive. Normal operating currents on most refrigerators run closer to 3a than to 5a except when there is the brief starting surge. Using the wrong fuse could come back to haunt you at some time in the future.
If you want to learn more about fuses and their design, more than you want to know is just a link away. Of course, that's NOT to say your particular model doesn't use one. No idea how you got volts to volt circuits as you posted??? See if it does or not blow the fuse.
But I would bet there is a problem with the element shorting to the side of the heating element. Remove the heating element and look for a swollen area on the element itself. If you try and wiggle the element when it is cool and it is stuck or hard to remove that is an indication that it has a problem. You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Paste as plain text instead. Only 75 emoji are allowed. Display as a link instead.Don is a retired engineer and long-time motorhome owner who enjoys helping readers deal with the increasingly complex technology of RVs. A typical pair of coach batteries that you might find on an RV, and their connections.
Two 6-volt DC batteries, connected in series, provide the volt power that powers many lights and controls. This article provides some basic information for the RV owner to help diagnose and repair electrical problems efficiently and safely. I'd like you to:. If you own or rent an RV, you will want to know enough to at least make a walk-around inspection before you go on the road, especially of the electrical system. Even a novice can learn how to inspect for problems, and determine if the problem is major or minor.
A major problem, for example, may be present when a refrigerator stops working, and you wonder if you should look into the wiring and propane-management circuitry on the back of the fridge or not.
For the electrical novice, the answer is no; stay away from such repairs yourself. They are too dangerous, especially when they involve AC power or propane. You should always contact a qualified service tech for resolving such problems. But a minor problem, one you could address on your own, could be something as simple as re-setting a breaker or GFI that has "kicked out," replacing a blown fuse that is easily accessible, taking an educated guess as to what caused the breaker or fuse to shut off, or checking the water in your battery.
So how do you tell? Before you start with any hands-on troubleshooting, keep in mind that safety comes first. Before you start opening panels and messing around with electrical systems, in an RV or camper or at home, observe these warnings. Now—with these warnings in mind—here are some minor problems that you may be able to fix, and some diagnostics that you can run yourself.
Every problem is different, but before or after you read the discussion just below of the basics of your system, check the four sections further below on troubleshooting common problems:. Plus I include a section on terms and abbreviations that you may run across while doing your electrical investigation. A modern RV contains a lot of built-in electrical devices. And along with these devices comes complicated electrical control and protection circuitry designed to protect the RV and its occupants.
Starting with the absolute basics, your RV's appliances can be powered in three different ways. Appliances may use any of these three power sources, individually or in combination. AC power comes into the RV from your generator, or from the campground or other outlet you plug it into: a amp, amp, or amp supply.
The AC power control panel distributes this power to the appliances and outlets that use AC power, for example the air conditioner. The campground supplies AC power on two different wires: a volt supply is split into two "legs" of volts or so. Your DC power comes from a battery or batteries like in the picture above.When your furnace keeps blowing a fuse, you need to take action quickly. Regularly tripping the fuse can be a fire risk because it indicates an electrical problem.
Replacing the fuse or resetting the breaker can temporarily fix the problem, but if the underlying issue is not fixed, the fuse will just blow again. To protect your family and ensure your furnace keeps working as it should, you need to find the source of the problem.
While there are a number of problems that can lead to this trouble, you need to get to the bottom of the problem quickly to determine if your furnace needs to be replaced. The team at T. Our expert technicians can come to your northeastern PA home to find the source of your problem and provide effective solutions. So, if the problem cannot be repaired, we can install a new, properly functioning furnace.
Contact T.Wildwood fuse light problem easy fix.
You can also call us at ! Blown fuses usually result either from an appliance putting too much strain on the fuse or by an electrical short in the system. Since some furnaces can require a lot of electricity, homeowners must ensure that they have an adequate electrical system to support the furnace. After resetting the circuit breaker and replacing the fuse, if the fuse keeps blowing, there might be an electrical short in the electrical system that supplies the electricity to the furnace.
In this case, you should call an electrician. Sometimes the blown fuse in the furnace comes from a malfunctioning transformer. In this case, you will need a technician to come and replace the old transformer with a new one. If the fuse in your furnace is too small and cannot handle the wattage, it can cause your fuse to blow. If this is your problem, simply replace the fuse with a larger capacity fuse that can handle the electrical demands.
If your thermostat wire touches the metal frame of the furnace, this can cause a blown fuse. When a thermostat wire touches the metal frame of the furnace, it can deliver more voltage than the wires are designed to handle.
Why Does My Furnace Keep Blowing the Fuse?
This will blow the fuse on the control board, causing the draft inducer to not start, which then stops the rest of the furnace functions from working properly.
Sometimes, your furnace may seem like it has blown a fuse, but it is actually suffering from loose wire connections. This is usually a good place to start looking for problems with your furnace as loose wires can usually be detected with a voltage meter. If loose wires are detected, they should be repaired or replaced by an electrical or HVAC technician. If your furnace keeps blowing a fuse, the team at T. Our NATE-certified technicians understand the importance of safety for your furnace, and we will quickly diagnose and repair the solution—or suggest the right furnace for replacement.
Call us today at or contact us online to get fast answers to your furnace fuse problems. The excellent service from T. Spall for the past 10 years is the reason why we chose no other company.
Breakers are far more common these days, but for the purposes of this post, the issues detailed will be the same no matter which electrical system your home uses. Having said that, what is causing your breaker or fuse to fail? The most common problems our furnace repair experts encounter include:. The absolute best method of ensuring you rarely if ever encounter issues like these is to make absolutely sure you get the routine professional maintenance your heating system needs.
Routine care goes a long way in preventing most furnace failures, and can save you a lot of time, money, and stress in the long run. Did you get your annual furnace maintenance this year? If not, give us a ring! Contact us today to learn more, or to set an appointment! A Message To Our Community: Read our communication regarding new measures our team is enacting in this critical time. Is the Problem Coming from the Fuse or the Breaker?
The most common problems our furnace repair experts encounter include: Your furnace is pulling too much electrical current. If anything exceeds the maximum allocated electricity for a particular fuse or breaker, they will fail, causing your furnace to lose power as a function of safety. This can happen for a variety of reasons, the most common of which are an improperly sized furnace, or a furnace in need of maintenance.
Your furnace or heating system is not on a dedicated circuit. You need dedicated circuits for any major appliance, including refrigerators, microwaves, washing machines, and, of course, HVAC systems. Wire damage and short circuits. This exposes your home to loose, poorly connected wiring that can cause dangerous short circuits. An outdated electrical panel or fuse box. If you suspect your panel, be sure to contact our master electricians in McLean right away!Using commonsense RV distribution center troubleshooting methods can narrow down the possibilities, helping you to figure out exactly what kind of repairs you need.
RV distribution center troubleshooting can show whether the electrical problem is in the wiring or the outlet itself or instead in the circuit breakers, which service the electrical system that feeds into your appliance. Who knows, the problem might be at the source in the campground or storage facility. Doing the diagnosing and repair on your own can eliminate expensive repair visits, ferreting out small problems you can fix yourself.
In this video, RV maintenance and repair expert Dave Solberg walks you through the process of RV distribution center troubleshooting. Specialized testers are important in checking circuits, and Dave shows you how to safely ground these testers to avoid sparking and shocks. Tracking down the power through the RV will tell you exactly where the problem resides, which may save you hundreds of dollars in bills from needless repair visits.
Use a non-contact voltage tester to ensure volts are coursing in the circuit breakers by removing the panel and clamping onto a ground surface. If all is good in the center, you should go to the appliance s giving you trouble. If power is flowing, the issue could be in the appliance itself. You can verify this by checking the status of other v outlets. Next, Dave inspects power in the microwave. He says that most outlets located near water sources are ganged to a ground-fault circuit interrupter.
Should this be the case for your appliance, he recommends testing whether other circuits are connected. In the bedroom or bathroom, for example. So we know that these outlets are ganged, and we might have our problem. We have a full library of videos that can help you repair and maintain your RV electrical systemsincluding a distribution center overview that gives you a quick rundown of the center. Click here to cancel reply.
I have the older model electrical box. My circuit breakers are all on. The fuses appear to be fine. My lights throughout the trailer are very dim and the exhaust fans are running slow. My husband who is away at the time says the batteries may not be being charged from the converter box.Remember Me? Page 1 of 2 1 2 Last Jump to page: Results 1 to 10 of Thread Tools Show Printable Version. One of the 15 amp fuse keeps blowing which causes the furnace and fridge not to work. We are on the road now, no one around to help and it is going down to 42 tonight!
Any ideas on what to try to get this to work so we can have heat thru the night is appreciated. We haven't had this issue before and we have used the furnace a couple times this summer.
It seems to blow as soon as the furnace is turned on. We did get it to run for 5 minutes earlier. Matt, Paula and Raven our black lab Our first camper! Do you have voltmeter to check the voltage at the fuse site? You indicate the fridge and furnace are on the same fuse. Shut the fridge off and try again.
If the furnace stays going you know the circuit is possibly overloaded or the furnace or fridge are drawing too much. If one is drawing too much current it will not be long before they will not start.
Check to see that 15 amp fuse is the correct size for that circuit. It is possible that it could be 20 amp.
RV Power Converter Troubleshooting
The cover of the converter should tell you. We do not have a voltmeter. We have tried turning the fridge off, didn't help. The labeling for the fuse does say 15, and we have used the furnace before with the fridge. Thankfully we have wi-fi and appreciate all the help, keep it coming. We were able for find a Walmart We shouldn't freeze! Guess we'll bake cookies since the half time oven makes it nice and toasty in here!
Will try calling the dealer in the morning The manual for the furnace states the 12V fuse should be no more than 20A. The manual for the refridgerator indicates a 30A fuse for the 12V DC heater unit, if you have a 3-way model.
Doesn't sound right to have both on the same fuse. The picture in the HL Owners Manual looks like two different fuses, not both on one. Unfortunately, I don't have access to my BH to actually look at the fuse panel.
There has to be a short. Based on what has been reported, I'm betting it is the furnace fan or wiring because it was indicated that the furnace started.Remember Me? Results 1 to 8 of 8. Thread: 15 Amp Fuse Keeps Blowing. Thread Tools Show Printable Version. Up until this issue, everything has worked flawlessly. The other day I was flipping breakers trying to figure out what they all went to. I then flipped off the one that goes to my HVAC. I flipped it on and off a couple of times and then after I flipped the breaker back on the final time, nothing would cycle back on.
I also smelled a very distinct electrical burning smell. Neither the furnace, blower or ac would go on. I set the thermostat to "On" to try to force the blower to go on. I cranked the temp up and then down Upon further inspection, the main 15 amp time delay fuse was blown.
3 Reasons Why Your Furnace Keeps Blowing Its Fuse
Not just melted, black and blown. I replaced the fuse, flipped the breaker on the panel back on and then set the thermostat. Still nothing I then did another experiment. I flipped the breaker to the HVAC off and the power switch on the furnace to off, and set the thermostat to fan only so that the AC or furnace would not power on.
That way only the blower would try to turn on. I then put a new 15 amp time delay fuse in, flipped the breaker on and flipped the switch on the furnace to on. So what do you all think is going on here? Blower motor burned up and thats what was giving off the electrical burning smell?